Young People and Old, Wellies etc.

A view from yoga street to Post Office

BlogPostMonday31Aug09
Sunday evening 19.00. It’s been raining all day long – did sneak out long enough to publish another blogpost but otherwise a nice day in front of the gas fireplace reading and knitting.
Something dawned on me after reading that Ireland’s population is younger than any other country in the European Union. Now I know why the people on the street have seemed so strange to me. They are all young! It is rare to see an old man or woman on the street or driving cars. The only place I see more are in the church. (By the way, one can’t rent a car here unless between the ages of 25 and 75.) But, what I had noticed is there are baby strollers everywhere! I even suspected the people just pushed them around to keep cars from running into them. But, they all have babies in them! They are out in all kinds of weather, too. Even have clear plastic covers over the strollers – even when the mothers or fathers don’t have raincoats or umbrellas. And, they are not all tourists – as a matter of fact, the tourists are getting fewer every day now that September is upon us. Today, last Monday in August, however, is a bank holiday so the town is pretty quiet with many places not opening for business.
Noon Monday. Rain is easing off now. Went out and bought “Wellingtons” or “Wellies” – rubber (actually plastic) boots to go exploring off the roadways with Margie on Friday. Most of the cultural relics are off in the fields somewhere, not on pavement. Looking forward to that trip.

Celtic Christianity, Spa, etc.

Thick walls, Narrow paths

BlogPostSunday30Aug09
13.30pm Good old tearjerker movie last night – “Losing Isaiah”. 8 o’clock service at St. Multose this morning. A rainy day so far – a good one to stay in and study. Yes, I’m back into the student mode and for good purpose. The priest of St. Multose is coming over for coffee on Tuesday morning to discuss Celtic Christianity with me so I am immersing myself in what writings on the subject are here in the apartment. He has already suggested a book that I have on order and some CD’s which I hope to find this afternoon at the book store. This is a subject of great interest to me in part because the Celts spiritual beliefs and practices are so closely allied to nature. Trees, in particular, play a big part in their practices.
Two evening events this week coming up – Tuesday evening movie about Hotel Rwanda and Wednesday evening a talk by the hotel manager hero from Rwanda – both sponsored by the Kinsale Peace Project, about which I know no more yet.
Talked with reservations at the Inchydoney Spa and made appointments for two treatments – neither of which I’ve had. On Saturday I’ll have something called their “Island Spa Tropical Ritual – vanilla and coconut body polish, coconut ocean float, and oil application.” On Monday I’ll have the “Cooling Hot Stone Body Facial.” Then, I’ve been told I can also make an appointment for riding a horse on the beach after I arrive on Friday. And, they do have internet connection so presumably I’ll be able to continue the blog postings.
Margie is going to drive me over to Inchydoney Friday and she’s planned a couple of stops to sightsee on the way, so I’m looking forward to actually seeing something rather than just “driving by” as Jim and I did much of the time. Just kidding – Jim – on the other hand, we covered a lot of Ireland on those drives and I’m grateful for that!
Stay tuned. It ain’t over yet!

Narrow streets, plastic bags, etc.

BlogPostSatrday29Aug09
(15.00 pm If I don’t forget, I’ll include a photo that will show you how narrow the streets are – just wide enough for one car and one person! When cars meet, one often pulls up onto the narrow sidewalk or at least stops and lets the other car do that! I’d be willing to bet that tires wear out on the sides from scraping the curbs rather than on the tread which doesn’t get as much rough treatment!) The car on the left is parked on the sidewalk - look closely in the center for the car and one person.
9.00 am – Leaving soon for yoga class – but thought I’d begin with a note that might be of interest to some. Yesterday at SuperValu (I’m not misspelling it – that’s the name) I bought milk and cookies and since I’d forgotten to take my string bag with me I asked for a plastic bag from the stack. The cashier told me they cost 22 cents each – so I stuck my tubes of cookies into my pockets and carried the milk in my hand, Can you imagine how much plastic must be saved from landfills? Wonder what it would take for the US to begin charging for the grocery plastic bags! Other types of stores do not charge but almost all use paper bags.
An interesting news event – nearly 40,000 well qualified students are likely to be turned away from British universities – no places for them. The government is being blamed for ignoring the crisis – they are advising the students to work for a year and reapply next year – but then where are the jobs? Guidance people are strongly advising that students have at least a second choice in case the first one refuses them.
Light bulbs are also in the news – 100 watt ones are no longer to be stocked after September 1. 150 watt ones are already banned. One local man recently bought a 15-year supply of 100-watt ones!
Those of you who know me well are probably surprised that I know any of the news! (I didn’t know about Hurricane Bill until Jim emailed me explaining why we had such high winds recently.) My incentive for TV listening (sometimes even watching) is to hear more speech – Irish speak much like British – in order to be able to understand people here better. I’m improving slowly, very slowly! Fortunately, there are several Irish movies here in the apartment and I’m thoroughly enjoying them as language teaching tools, also.
3:00 pm: Just got the nerve to tackle the climb up to Compass Hill with my camera and got two photos before the batteries died – and I had just taken them out of the charger! Discovered when I got back and plugged them back into the charger that I had forgotten to turn the wall switch on!!! Did I tell you every outlet has a switch, in addition to plug-in spots. So I’ll have to climb again – but not twice in one day!

Weather - Sheep - Soldiers etc.

BlogPostFriday28Aug09 – 15.00 pm
Today has been another one with a totally new experience! I went to the Carmelite Friary for a retreat this morning at 11:00 – 12:30. (It, too, is a 5-minute walk from my flat.) The retreat speaker is a Catholic priest “direct from ROME” (the introducer said this). He speaks almost no English, so an interpreter accompanied him and that was something I’ve never experienced before. Even the Dalai Lama spoke in English when he came to Atlanta. (He did have an interpreter, but rarely relied on him.) So, despite the need for an interpreter, it went extremely well – but still it is hard work to listen through an interpreter. I found that if I closed my eyes and just listened to her, it went better. But, when I did that, I missed all of the speaker’s facial expressions and body English which makes for a rather dull talk. So, I switched back and forth. At any rate, it was a pleasant experience although I don’t intend going again for tomorrow’s session. (Yoga class tomorrow.)
An event on Wednesday I didn’t report – on my way to the SuperValu I passed an armed military person on all three corners just below the store. There is a post office and a Bureau of Exchange where they were posted – don’t know what is on the other corner. Have no idea why these 3 soldiers were standing there with their rifles – maybe it’s a common occurrence, but not for me!
Sheep. Sara’s sending me a delightful sheep video reminded me – I forgot to tell you why some sheep have blue or red paint on their backs (from about the “waist” back – not toward the head). Friend Win Nelson explained our tour guide, when she and I were here years ago, explained the farmers paint the under belly of the breeding males so that they know by which male the female has been bred. I don’t know what they do if they have more than two breeding males – never saw anything but red or blue paint. I also don’t know how they keep the paint from drying before breeding occurs!!! I can envision a scenario, but won’t draw a picture. Use your own imagination.
One other phenomena we in South Carolina can appreciate – the weather people on TV never say anything about weather here in the Republic of Ireland, only in Northern Ireland – they are all British Broadcasting Company stations. (You know how often our weather people refer to “the Carolinas” while pointing to NC?) So, what you see is the weather person standing in front of Ireland except for Belfast – on the east coast – and so we have to guess what is happening here (SW). That’s what we get for independence! The channel based in Wales actually does speak occasionally about the weather here. Actually, my most reliable source is the internet weather which Luke fortuitously set up for Cork and Ninety Six on my home page – so I can easily see each day that your weather is in the 90s and mine is rainy and in the 60s with lows in the 40s. If for no other reason – weather is a very good reason for being in Ireland in August! I have yet to see a day when the sun doesn’t shine at least half the day – although which half is not predictable. And, what a joy to wear a sweater part of the day!
Enough of this.

BlogPostWed26Aug09
15.40 pm Wednesday. Already this day has been another winner! Began with a bit of laundry –(I’ve discovered it dries on the rack faster if I place it in front of the gas fireplace instead of the bathtub) – and then off to the Actons Hotel health center down by the harbor for a water aerobics class in a lovely indoor heated pool. Alana teaches the class and did a super job – lots of fun – and saw two other people I already know. Then to lunch at Fishy Fishy with Joan – a repeat of smoked salmon over lettuce with capers, etc. while Joan had mussels which looked scrumptious. I may try them one day when I have my digestive enzymes with me – but not without, for sure. I’m not safe with oysters or clams, so mussels may present a challenge, too.
From Fishy Fishy I strolled back toward the apartment with a quick stop at the Kinsale Health Food Store – a new opening. Next stop – the apartment to pick up my laptop and off to the Internet Café.
More later. Nap time now.
Thursday morning – 9:00 am. Never got the nap. Margie showed up to fix the refrigerator control knob and 5 minutes later Joan rang the doorbell with some tape to tape the letter box flap that keeps clacking away when the wind blows – which is pretty often – especially at night! She also brought some Haagen Dazs raspberry smoothie which was very thoughtful – but since my fridge has no freezer compartment – we ate some while she was here and then I came close to finishing off the 500 ml along with my Snickers for supper!
In my reviewing tourist info yesterday I ran across a brochure on Youghal – one of my favorite places since it’s pronounced “yall” and reminds me of home. So I’ll post my photo of the Youghal gate – “completed in 1777, the third one at this point in the town walls. The tower was used as the town gaol until the middle of the 19th century and prisoners were executed by hanging from the windows.” An interesting point about architecture – notice that the upper windows are shorter than the lower ones. This is typical of the houses as well – I understand that it is a way of making the houses look taller – an optical illusion kind of thing – and is seen all over Ireland – at least all over where I’ve been!. It is more obvious in the Jameson Distillery photo.
Enough – off to yoga class!

Thai dinner in Cork

BlogPostTuesday25Aug09
Yesterday, Tuesday, was another full day – began with a yoga class of only 3 of us – each took turns teaching something and they enjoyed my “Laughing Lion” very much! Then to the Tuesday farmer’s market for cheeses, salads, bread, and cottage pie (from the Finders Inn brother Aaron who mans the market booth). What I had on Sunday with Joan was so good that I knew I’d enjoy another batch for supper one night! And the Irish brown bread (baking soda) is heavenly with butter and jam.
Sadly, the market is being moved from the square – some of the town fathers have decided it is dangerous and someone may fall or trip over the steps some day – but the real reason, I gather, is they want to enlarge it to increase their income and so are moving it to a larger place! What a crock! It is such a delightful place as it is and no one knows of anyone ever tripping or falling in the five years it’s been there! So, next Tuesday I’ll have to hunt for it.
Then, after a delightful afternoon listening to more of the How the Irish Saved Civilization CD’s and knitting and napping – Alana picked me up for the drive into Cork and a delightful Thai vegetarian dinner (They serve ONLY vegetarian dinners at this restaurant.) Mine was a pile of spinach covered by a crepe-like pasta stuffed with goat cheese, some capers and slivers of other veggies, and heavenly artichoke hearts halved and stuffed with ??? whatever it was was topped with breadcrumbs and tasted SOOO GOOD. I don’t believe I’ve ever before eaten food that was so tasty! And, I’ve been eating good food ever since I arrived! Kinsale, by the way, is considered the gourmet capital of Ireland. The experience was enhanced by the company of two of Alana’s friends, Saya (from Finland – I’m sure I’ve misspelled her name but that’s the phonetic spelling) and Michelle. So, now, I have two more new friends.
Arrived home last evening at 11:00 and spent a restless night – VERY WINDY – even hurricane force winds, I’ve heard, - and the letter slot cover kept slapping against the metal and waking me during the night! I must get some tape or something to keep the blasted thing from rattling and waking me.
More tomorrow!

BlogPostMonday24Aug09
The Sunday evening “Family Songs of Praise” sponsored by the Baptist Churches of Ireland was very different from the one I attended in Ninety Six. First of all, my friend Joan is Catholic. There were also others who attend the Anglican Church of Ireland St. Multose church I’ve been attending here. Also, the majority of the people attending were young – 20 to 30, I’d guess. There was even a sprinkling of children and some of us seniors! They did not take up a collection. It was held in a hotel meeting room, not a church. A group of young musicians led the singing. The “speaker” was a young pastor who spoke for 5 minutes! What I’m saying, is the whole event was totally different from the one I’d attended in Ninety Six except that we did a lot of singing and some prayer at both. Even the songs were different!
This is just one example of what a terrific learning experience this trip is. And, of course, this is the basic reason I came – to learn about a different culture.
I have learned that after a really full day of “going” I need a day of “staying in.” So, yesterday, Monday, was a relaxed, stay-at-home day. I did walk out to get a quiche from the Londis store, and some delightful chocolate-covered biscuits. But, much of the day was spent listening to “How the Irish Saved Civilization” CD’s while knitting. A nice gas fire in the fireplace and people-watching out the windows – that is to say, a time of just being, little doing.
Now, today, I’ll go do a yoga class, to the internet café to post this, and dinner out in Cork with friends this evening.

Tour of Ireland

BlogPostSunday23Aug09 18.20 pm
What a day this has been! 8:00 church service at St. Multose again. Then about one o’clock the Tour of Ireland cyclists rode right by me. I had a spot on the curb and got a good shot of the three leaders as they turned the corner around the Visitor’s Center headed for the Post Office and the road to Cork. (Jim, you know where I’m talking about.). It rained hard all morning till about 10 minutes before the cyclists showed up and the rest of the day has been lovely. Then Joan, a friend I met at the home of Margie and Alana at dinner on Tuesday, rang my doorbell and took me out to the quaint little village of Novahal a few miles out of town where we had a delightful lunch at the Finder’s Inn. Homemade Cottage Pie and Strawberries and Cream – Ice cream so yellow it’s hard to believe how thick the cream must be! Then a bit of a drive around Oysterhaven to see the sail boats and back to the apartment.
At church this morning the priest suggested a book which I have now ordered from the local bookstore (Yes, it’s open on Sunday afternoon). “Where Three Streams Meet” – about Celtic Christianity. The plan is for us to meet after next week for me to get some instruction from him. I have been reading another Celtic book this week written by a man in Atlanta! Wonders never cease.
To top off the day, Joan is picking me up again in a bit to go to a “Praise and Prayer” session – the first one to be held here as far as she knows. I had planned to go anyway to see what an Irish one is like – compared to one I attended in Ninety Six a few months ago.
So, another very full day – and a delightful one. I am so blessed!!!

Yoga etc.

BlogPostSaturday22Aug09
Well, today is Saturday, and things are settling into a routine for me. Walked to yoga class at the Actons Hotel health center down by the harbor this morning for an hour and a half of good stuff! One thing new is the notion of allowing students to “do their own thing” for 10 minute periods – specifically some form of sun salutations – after having being led through several repetitions. I’ve not seen this done before. As a matter of fact, every yoga class I’ve attended I’ve learned something new! This was my fourth yoga session since arriving, third teacher. A novel thing I saw Rose do in my first class with her was simply touching the lower back to encourage taller straighter torso when doing the seated forward bend.
This morning I paid 20 euros for a yoga mat – to give you some idea of the difference in monetary values – One euro equals about $1.50. So, instead of $10 at Wal-Mart in Greenwood, I paid about $30. I’m not really complaining, just explaining. I might have gotten one cheaper in Cork – a larger city – but I wanted one NOW – not a bus trip away. And, frankly I was surprised that the small sporting goods store here even had one! I don’t really need it this week – the studios all supply mats – but I will want it when I go to the spa the first part of September –to use on the beach!
At 4:00 I’ll walk back down to the Visitor’s Center and join a guide for a walking tour of the town. It’s about time I learned some of the mysteries of this oldest city in Ireland from someone who has been doing tours for more than 40 years! I’ve spent several hours so far listening to CD’s entitled “How the Irish Saved Civilization” a delightful set of lectures – all the while knitting away, of course. My existence here is so delightful it feels almost sinful! It’s such a wonderful gift and blessing to be here doing whatever pops into my head at the moment. I am becoming very comfortable in this environment. It’s a joy to be able to walk everywhere I want to go! Two large grocery stores – Londis and SuperValu – and numerous specialty food shops from Thai to local produce are all within very short walks. And, the same for post office, internet café, pharmacy, bank, clothing stores, yoga classes, harbor cruises, etc. You get the picture.
21.00 pm: Wow! What a day. I’m feeling some new muscles I hadn’t felt before – from the different yoga asanas this morning – and the town walk tour tonight was truly enlightening. Lots of stuff to go photograph tomorrow!

Thursday in Kinsale

BlogPostFriday21Aug09
It’s actually Friday this time (rather than the day before) – 9:00 am. Yesterday was a return to yoga class – which was VERY good. Rose is an excellent instructor. Got to lots of hip stuff that loosened me up in places I haven’t been loose lately. Now tomorrow I’ll try a new place for a yoga class since the Kinsale Yoga Center is rented out to a workshop group for the weekend. Something called EFT which is meaningless to me.
Got deeply into my knitting – even managed to correct an error without finding a knitting expert. Thought for a while I would have to make a bus trip back to Cork to get help! Rained much of yesterday – in spurts - real downpours that lasted a couple of minutes then back to bright sunshine. Absolutely delightful weather – in the 60’s and even low 70’s occasionally. Certainly not the 90’s still happening in your part of the world!
Enough. Time to get moving into the day.

Apartment Behind the Yellow Door

BlogPostThursday20Aug09
Wednesday 17.05 pm. Jim and I had a delightful lunch of salad (warm potatoes and tomatoes on lettuce with cashews and bacon) and rabbit (hare) casserole with the usual Irish brown bread and butter that has now become a favorite of mine – very heavy, loaded with grains and seeds. The last time I had rabbit was in Tourette sur Loup, France, with REA when we visited Jim and Anne – how many years ago? Forever it seems. Then we waited together at the bus stop until it arrived and swallowed up Jim and took him to Cork airport (a 30-minute ride) – then his flight to Dublin for the night before flying home tomorrow.
I made a quick stop by the Visitor’s Center (almost a daily practice now) for some guidance and was told about a lovely Buddhist stop that unfortunately is totally out of the way without a car – but maybe next trip. It now has been raining most of two days but strangely it isn’t depressing – seems perfectly natural and no real inconvenience since it is so light the umbrella isn’t worth the trouble. Did put a damper on our touristing in Cork yesterday since our glasses were covered with mist from the rain, but another day will come for me to do more of Cork.
It is noteworthy how people dress here. I have seen only one or two women with obvious makeup and hairstyling except those working in the stores in Cork. Everyone seems very “natural” for want of a better word, and completely comfortable with themselves – a real shortage of pretense. It’s a delightful change.
The terrain is so green is it still hard to believe! We heard there are 40 shades of green in the landscape. I don’t doubt it. Flowers are everywhere – trees, shrubs, and lots of window boxes and lamppost baskets on the streets. And, clean! I have seen only one plastic bag on the roadside and no trash on the streets. Of course, the street sweepers are out each morning with their machines (rain or shine). It was strange seeing guys with mowers and string-trimmers working in the rain yesterday.
The Tour of Ireland occurs this weekend (576 km) in three stages – the final one comes right through Kinsale Sunday at 12.40 pm – 112 cyclists including Lance Armstrong and Mark Cavendish, as well as last year’s winner Marco Pinotti. So, you can bet I’ll be on the street then!
Enough for now.

Cork bus trip

BlogPostWednesday19Aug09
Tuesday, 6:30. Up early this morning to get off to Cork on the bus and spend the day there. Last night we had a delightful dinner of pasta, very moist chicken breasts on greens, garlic bread dinner prepared by Alana, followed by a dessert sampler of tart, cake, and three or four kinds of ice cream including a “smoothie” kind that Joan (another guest) brought. Alana and Margie have a lovely home in a gated community just across the harbor between the inner harbor and the Celtic Sea. Jim and I had a great time learning more about our new friends and the country. Each has a fascinating story to tell.
Among the trivia, bought a new mouse at a local shop yesterday – the wireless one died – lovely young woman walked with me about 25 feet from the internet café to her computer shop, opened it up, and helped me. I’m still having trouble understanding the lovely speech of the people but they are so gracious and patient with me I feel very welcome and no embarrassment – just fun listening and learning.
Tuesday, 14:00. (This posting by Jim) We’re back! We rode the bus to Cork, did a walking tour of a well known English Market in the back alleys, off a main drag and not far from the city bus terminal. Lots of interesting things to see including butcher shops, cheese shops, olive shops, wool yarn shops, and on and on. We had planned to travel further afield but it has been a wet, foggy, dreary day weatherwise and so we decided to abandon our more ambitious plans and return to the market in Kinsale for cheeses, tarts, etc. and the Fishy Fish down below our apartment for cod and chips. Now it is nap time and then maybe, just maybe, we will have the energy for a pub and a little music. This is my last night in Kinsale. We have had a wonderful time together.
Here’s Jaquie’sy take on the Cork trip. What a FUN time with Jim learning how to navigate the bus station and find our way around Cork. I’ll wait for a sunny day – or at least a somewhat less rainy day – for my next trip. My big find in Cork was the yarn shop – Faye can appreciate that! -- where I bought 2 big skeins of yarn spun in County Cork and a pattern and needles and am now started on a summery pale yellow sweater! NOW I feel like a typical Irish lass! Surely they ALL knit. Well, if not the lasses, perhaps the grandmothers.

BlogPostMon17Aug09
On Sunday Jim took the car back to Hertz and so now we are without motorized carriage. We are down to public transportation be it road-train, bus, shoe leather, flip flops, or whatever. We traveled more than 1000 kms over three days and have passed by an awful lot of countryside in the process, through a lot of delightful little “tidy towns”, seen beaches, yacht clubs, grain fields, hay fields, sheep, grazing beef and dairy cattle, and charming little country houses as well as narrow roads (narrower than Tillman Territory road by a long shot), motorways, regional routes, one lane bridges, detours, and even road bowling. Jim would have had no idea what was going on had in not been for Jackie’s education about this sport prior to departure from the USA.
Jim took the bus back from the Cork airport to Kinsale and bought a round trip ticket so he can be on his way on Wednesday. After his return we went to St. Multose for Sunday church services and then down to Fishy Fish for a lunch of fish soup and salmon on a bed of lettuce. Somewhere along the way we stopped in a shoe shop and Jackie bought herself some new shoes!

Our final travel by car day

BlogPostSun16Aug09
This morning we found a café with WIFI free connection where my computer worked much faster. Even though it’s a bit further to walk, it did work better than the cable hookup I’ve been using, and it’s free. But, we bought lattes that cost more than the fee at the other place – still more fun and more likely to run across others to chat with. Yes, there was a man of about the right age there. Next week Jim won’t be here, so who knows what may happen!
Saturday has been another wonderful travel day. We left about 10:00 and returned around 16:00. From Kinsale to Blarney Woolen Mills for a few purchases and then to Blarney Castle for photos. Neither of us was willing to climb the 100 steps to the top of the castle tower to kiss the blarney stone. I think we both have enough eloquence of speech (blarney, that is) to not need more! We had lunch at the Blarney cafeteria – me soup again and Jim Irish stew. Then we took off for Cork and had our first mixup with the roads ending up circling the airport before we got headed straightaway toward Clonakilty (on the coast, again) and wonderful tiny roads along the coast from Clonakilty back to Kinsale on R600 – the same route that Lance Armstrong and others will be riding on the Tour of Ireland. On August 23 they will be coming through Kinsale about noon and I’m planning to be on the street with my camera waiting for them. What a wonderful unexpected treat!
Some of our stops on the back roads were Timoleague, Courtmacshern, Ballinspittle, and Old Head where we found lots of people on the beach or in the surf obviously thoroughly enjoying the surf even though the high temperatures here have been in the 60’s. I have no idea what the water temp is but it’s not for me to swim in!
From Old Head we made our way to Kinsale without disruption. Twice during the day we had directions from locals and that’s much of the fun part! They are so very polite and kind and welcoming!
We’re having our first dinner out tonight at a restaurant named Jim Edwards highly recommended by writers in the Guest Book here in the apartment.

BlogPostSat15Aug09
Friday was another winner! Great fun navigating for Jim as we took off eastward on a Regional Road (least maintained and narrowest of all the roads) that was delightful – lovely fields and farm houses – very twisty-turny and tiny infrequent signs – anyhow a fun bit of exploring. Then on to Midleton where we visited the Jameson Distillery – beautiful very old stone building with beautiful wood surfaces inside. From there to Youghal (y’all) – one of my favorite places. The Youghal bay was covered in fog, a soft rain was falling, and we were able to drive right along the water – at one point a sign indicated the car would fall into the water if we went further!
So, we found a blue stand where you deposit a coin to receive a paper pass to place on the car dash to pay for parking – just one or two stands for a whole parking lot – not individual parking meters. From there to a Quay Bar and Restaurant on the waterfront for lunch – bowl of hot pureed veggie soup, lovely breads (no packaged crackers!) and back into the car for a ride along the way through Dungarvan and into Waterford. The factory is now closed – production has been outsourced to Slovenia, Portugal and other countries. But, the store was open so we made a few purchases and headed back home. A great day traveling – and nice supper from the Londis deli/grocery (not Landis, but close). Jim had shepherd’s pie and I had a samosa – pastry triangle packed with peas and carrots. We ended the evening at a sidewalk table eating the most delicious ice cream (and the most expensive!) I’ve ever eaten from the “Sundays” store which stays open till 22:00. A top day? You ‘betcha!

From Jim and Me - Ring of Kerry and Dingle Bay

BlogPostFriday14Aug09
Friday morning 8:30. Wow – yesterday was a blast! We were driving for about 11 hours so we saw a lot of southwest Ireland. Did the Ring of Kerry – saw sheep with blue or red paint markings (forgotten what that’s for but I’ll find out) all over the slopes of the mountains. Ate roast lamb for lunch at a hotel in Caherciveen that was totally grand – two huge lovely slabs of lamb on top of mashed potatoes! A ride along the south side of the Dingle peninsula to Dingle and a stop at the marina for a marina flag (Jim collects them) where we saw guys sailing but wearing wet suits – not warm water!
From Dingle we did a bit of retracing our steps to get back off the peninsula and headed around the Ring of Kerry ending at Killarney and thence back toward Cork and down to Kinsale. The mountains, valleys, and bays and beaches are absolutely breathtaking – what a TRIP! Jim’s driving was superb! He seemed to be completely comfortable with the right-hand drive – me? No way. Actually, even if I wanted to, I couldn’t – cut-off age is 75 to rent a car. Don’t need one anyway except to avoid riding bus or train. Although, with Jim driving it was a super way to do what you want when you want!

Jim’s turn: We probably tried to do too much in one day but when you have only so much time and want to do it all, you’ve no choice but to push yourself. Incredible experience, the drive. Ireland is warmed by the gulf stream. Even though summers are not hot, neither are winters as bitter as much of Europe. We rode through all kinds of environments from arid rocky hilly terrain not good for much but sheep to a dense National Forest of Killarney with ferns, lush green undergrowth and huge evergreens!
At the Dingle Sailing Club found another burgee for the collection of the Yacht Club of Hilton Head. The Dingle Sailing Club dock master told me the club was expecting about 50 sail boats from France later in the afternoon arriving as a stop in a single handed racing regatta! It takes a few days to sail from France to Ireland so I imagine the arriving sailors will be delighted to get the rest Dingle offers. The Irish coast is absolutely breathtaking. There are a few grayish sandy beach coves but most of the coast is lined with fingers of water reaching deep into the land along high cliffs and craggy shores. Tides are in the 20 foot range and so you get rivers of water rushing both in and out as the tides rises and falls. Rivers are reduced to dry marshes twice a day and then fast moving waters coming and going to substantial depths. I’m having fun.

Thursday post

BlogPostThursday13Aug09: 6:30 am
Today we will hit the road with Jim driving - going west to Killarney and then – we’ll decide as we go. This is his first driving test – made it from the airport south of Cork but no other attempts.
Yesterday, Wednesday, was a great touristy day. Jim to internet café and shopping for boat sweater, then we took a Road Train trip around town twisting and turning on the twisty-turny narrow streets and out of town around the harbor up to Charles Fort. The little road train was built in Portugal and is a delightful way to tour with the driver explaining what we are seeing all along. (If I don’t forget I’ll insert a photo of the road train – a really neat vehicle!) Then home for lunch and back out in the afternoon for a Harbor Cruise of an hour – a very pleasant trip with Captain Jerome – he recommended The Spaniard for good music on Wednesday nights but we didn’t make that – music doesn’t start till 21.00 nearly our bedtime! In the inner and middle harbor we saw Kinsale Yacht Club orange sails boats where young people wearing helmets were taking sailing lessons. Then by the KYC club house to check it out, and buy souvenirs of course. On the harbor cruise we met a couple from Zimbabwe.
Which reminds me of the variety of people from all over the world who are on holiday here. It does seem most are of European origin. I’ve seen no dark-skinned people except for one couple from the Middle East. Notably, baby strollers are everywhere! They almost seem to be a device for keeping the cars from running over folks!
We renewed our supply of euros at the Bank of Ireland ATM machine. My debit card from Wachovia worked fine. Came home by the wine store - we are enjoying wines from Chile, Argentina, and Italy so far. Did see a Gallo but have foregone that pleasure. My favorite so far is Santa Carolina – a chardonnay from Chile.

Now its Jim’s turn: Jackie is a wonderful hostess. She already has the lay of the land all figured out. Apartment is wonderful, cozy, and close to everything. Our residence has the usual for Europe mini fridge, mini clothes washer, mini dishwasher! Anne, we even found a Luigi Bosca Malbec yesterday in the local wine shop. We have had fish and chips at Dino’s on the quay, just down the road from the Yacht Club and I had another helping of cod and chips from Fishy Fish, the fish store and eatery just down from Jackie’s apartment. Today we will drive west from Kinsale and do the Ring of Kerry (Ireland’s Amalfi Drive} and/or the Dingle peninsula. Tomorrow or the next day we plan to head east toward Waterford to see the crystal business there. N.B. Production of crystal at Waterford ceased a few months ago and, reportedly, not likely to begin again, ever. There is a museum and shop still open for visitors and shoppers. I’m already trying to convince Jackie that she needs to do this renting of apartments abroad on an annual basis! Ireland, not unlike much of the world these days, has a huge unemployment problem and I saw long lines at the social services building yesterday. The newspapers lead with stories about the increasing numbers of people that are applying for help from government services to those with delinquent mortgages and credit cards. Lines at tourist attractions are apparently not what they used to be in August, the favorite month for European vacations.

Jim's here

BlogPostWed12Aug09
Today (Tuesday) has been a great one so far – Yoga from 10:30 to 12:00 and I got home just 5 minutes before Jim drove into the parking lot! He got an earlier flight. We went straightaway to the Farmer’s Market and lucky we did – the salad vendor was almost out of salads! But, we managed to get a bag full of lots of things from bread to salads to cheeses, etc. Then, home for lunch and now rest before going out to walk the town some more.
Already Jim has made himself valuable – got the clothes washing machine figured out – you have to pull the knob out to start it! Discovered the skylights all have shades! I wondered what the cords were for. And suggested I might be wise to lock the door even when I’m inside! What a strange notion! I thought I was being especially careful by locking it when I left. But, he hasn’t tackled my mobile phone yet – we’ll see if he can figure out how to accept a call – I learned how to send one already on my own.
More later. Jim arrived! Here we are together in Kinsale at the crafts show – each Tuesday in July and August. A nice gentleman asked to take this photo! Don’t ask me why the sign says Tuesday Tuesday? Or, why it is the Temperence hall?????? Jim and I ignored the sign and became intemperant shortly thereafter.

BlogPostTuesday11Aug09
Tuesday is yoga class, shopping at the farmer’s market, and Jim’s arrival.
Since I’ll be busy most of the day tomorrow, I’ll begin tonight (Monday).
Great day today! I have to be away from the apartment September 4 to 11 (it was previously rented for that week) and today made reservations at a lodge/spa about 20 miles from here – on the ocean! Check it out at www.inchydoneyisland.com for a web treat! And, eat your hearts out! It is absolutely amazing how everything that I can dream up is coming to fruition with no problems! Alana mentioned the place as one where her friend liked the hot stone massages – and that’s all it took for me to buy into it.
Trying another new thing for supper tonight from a deli – by the way the bread I bought at the Farmer’s Market last Tuesday is ciabatta – saw it in the Super-Valu today with the name on the wrapper. Tonight, it’s chicken and mushroom vol au vent. I have no idea what that means – I guess it’s French and all I studied in school was Latin – anyhow kind of looks like a cream-puff pastry stuffed with chicken, mushrooms, and something green – scallions maybe. What an education I’m getting food-wise – and so far I haven’t cooked anything except green tea and boiled eggs! I just wander into one of the many shops and pick something I’ve never eaten before and bring it home with me.
More tomorrow if I have time.
8:00 – It’s tomorrow – Tuesday – so a quick fun thing to report from last evening. The priest at St. Multose closes the door to the church each evening about 6:00 – otherwise it’s open all day – I love that! – and last evening I happened to be looking out the window when he arrived on the sleekest motorcycle I’ve ever seen! Calmly got off, walked up to the door and closed it and returned to the street and rode off on his beautiful machine! Now I believe he must lock the gate also since a tourist is sticking his camera between the bars of the gate to get a picture – yep even at this hour they are out and about although generally people don’t begin to wander till around 11:00 except those going to work and most places don’t open till 10:00.

BlogPostMonday10Aug09 10:00 am
Quiet day at the apartment yesterday except for Church of Ireland early service, coffee with Alana, and short time at internet café. TV movies, rugby, etc. Commercials here as bad as in US. But, at least I’m becoming a bit more familiar with the language by listening to the local airings. Read a Nicholas Sparks book (The Rescue) I found here in the apartment so, as with all his books I’ve read, good cleansing of the tear ducts!

First Sunday in Ireland

BlogPostSunday9Aug09
This morning (Saturday) I attended my first yoga class at Kinsale Yoga Center – thought Friday was Saturday and walked over but found out I was off by a day. (Those of you who have been reading the postings will understand what I mean by that.) Anyway, it was a very good experience. Instructor’s technique very similar to Stephanie Keach’s at Asheville Yoga Center where I did my training. So, I felt right at home. At the same time, Rose introduced me to some new asanas (not unusual for instructors to prefer different ones) and a couple of new adjustments that will be very useful to me and my students. My plan now is to attend classes Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings unless something more exciting comes up.
The rain ended about 9:00 and it’s been another absolutely beautiful day! I just hope it holds until Jim gets here Tuesday evening. Tourists are strolling by, in and out of the gate to St. Multose, and some are photographing my apartment! The covered well out front and the yellow door, red bench, etc. make quite a lovely photo. So, they are either photographing my apartment or occasionally coming up on the stairs and photographing the church from my landing! Either way, it’s fun watching them enjoy what I am enjoying.
Sunday morning 10:00
Church across the street at 8:00 - amazingly short and sweet – just liturgy, eucharist, no sermon! Eleven o’clock service is more, I understand. Alana and I had coffee and nice conversation afterwards. Nice beginning to what looks to be another beautiful day in Kinsale! Fun to note on my computer that it is 4:59 am where you are!

Rain - Desmond Castle

BlogPostSaturday8Aug09 – 7:30
Now it looks like Ireland – woke to rain – soft, gentle rain – just as I expected to be happening all the time and it just showed up after 5 days of glorious sunshine! It’s almost a relief to think that today I have permission to stay in and read and rest and not work so hard at DOING! There is a nice collection of books, CD’s and videotapes in my apartment I have barely begun to explore. Another delightful book I’ll recommend is “Irish Girls About Town” – a collection of short stories by Irish women writers that brought to me smiles and even occasional laughs. The pantry and fridge are now stocked and underneath the apartment is a Fishy Fish store and restaurant which I have yet to try. Across the street is the church and next to it a pub – bakery – internet café – everything one could need so close an umbrella is questionable.
Yesterday’s exploring involved a visit to the Desmond Castle – just 100 yards up the hill – a residence, customs house, jail, workhouse for the poor and now home of International Museum of Wine. Much of the wine connection is a matter of family and import/export connections with wineries in France and Spain rather than production of wines here – but the monks did, and I think still do, produce some wine here – necessary for eucharists, of course, and for “relief of distress” or words to that effect – just as we use wine!
Next I did a good bit of hiking looking for the pottery where classes are offered I learned about on the web before leaving home. Once up the hill with directions from the Visitors Center and querying locals walking who sent me to a restaurant in the opposite direction called the Ceramic Restaurant – which was relatively nearby, closed and not the place I was looking for. So, I made a loop back down the hill and around took a break sitting on a bench and decided to try again. So, back up the hill I went, followed the map a little better, still ended up asking directions from some delightful young men who assured me I was going in the right direction but it was much further than one would want to walk – offered me the taxi phone number, and I departed back down the hill to home. Next time I’ll start with a taxi!
Time for tea!

Sunshine!

BlogPost7Aug09:8:20
At 10:00 I will be at my first yoga class here. Visitor’s Center told me about a Yoga Center yesterday and I found it – 5 minute walk from my apartment. Didn’t make it to the circus yesterday. Finally got around to figuring out how to run the TV and got absorbed in an Irish movie with Stewart Granger starring – my favorite movie star when I was a teen!
People tend to speak very rapidly so having trouble understanding the speech. Decided I needed some more listening to the Irish and got absorbed in listening to the BBC news and then the local news all about the bad economic conditions here and the need for eliminating 20 police (garda) stations around the country (many of which are abandoned buildings according to the media) plus pharmacists strikes over reduction of their government subsidy, not all of which I totally got, but suffice it to say – there’s deep economic trouble here. Tourists are much fewer (especially from England) so the crowds are small. As a matter of fact, there are no crowds anywhere I’ve been – even in the 50% sale shops.
It seems that everyone is enjoying the sunshine. There are lots of people in the parks and all over the village sitting on benches in the sun. Fascinating to see all the women with low-cut tops and pink necks, arms, and chests from being in the sun. The weather has been absolutely beautiful – rained only the first day I was here which was great for sleeping and getting over the long flight. Hearing and watching the rain on the skylights is VERY restful! This morning I woke to birds flying over in the beautiful sunlight.

A Day at the Apartment mostly

BlogPostWed5Aug9: 15:30
Luke and whoever else is interested: A web site that needs to be checked out – on a van parked across the street – www.irishprawns.com – exporter of fish from Ireland and Scotland! Do you suppose they export them to USA?
This has been a slow day. Yesterday I walked up and down the hills so often I needed a day off – today. So, only three short trips up and down today. And, I now feel GREAT again – ready for whatever arises.
Yoga – found a Saturday morning class in a hotel here – down by the water – so will drop-in for that. Resumed my morning sun salutations today.
Just finished an inspiring book: “Annie Freeman’s Fabulous Traveling Funeral.” I highly recommend it to all my women friends. It will inspire you to do and be more than you thought you could. And, especially to seize the present moments. Thanks, SusanH, for the gift.
The sun is shining again today – all day! So, I’m seeing a wonderful parade of people driving on the wrong side of the road, walking or riding bikes past my windows.
More later when I return from Rotary meeting this evening.
21:30 Another wild ride – this time with Alana driving – into Cork to Rotary meeting at a hotel. Delightful dinner of salmon, veggies, bread, and potatoes – all delicious! Nice group of 8 members, a speaker (local councilwoman) and 2 guests, including me. I only understood about 1/3 of what people were saying (Yes, I did have in my hearing aids) but it was still delightful. Their speech is so melodic and easy on the ears.
Alana recommends that I attend a local circus tomorrow – more about that after I go.

A Day Exploring Kinsale

Tuesday-4Aug9-17:00
Note to Jim: I used your rocketmail to send email – I’ll explain later.
Today was the most beautiful sunny day you can imagine! People in the park with short sleeves – everyone running around like it is the first day of spring! And, it’s still sunny! All the wall electric heaters turned off – fan turned on! I spent much of the day walking most of the streets at least one way – some of them twice or three times either by accident or on purpose a couple of times. The Harbor Cruise boat had a line of people long enough for two boatloads. The bumper cars and revolving tea cups in the carnival in the park were full of kids. I was tempted to ride myself – but the cars were too small for me. And, oh yes, the largest grocery store (SuperValue) does have a very small selection of frozen foods – my error yesterday.
The cars, vans, and trucks on the streets are like watching a sideshow! They are all stopped more often than moving. The streets are very twisty and turny and there just isn’t enough room for the busses and trucks to make the turns. So, everything else stops while the larger vehicles try to find a way to get where they are going. Which makes it easy to cross the streets walking any where any time you feel like it – since all the traffic is stopped most of the time.
. The main tourist parking lot is to the right of my window and the shopping district to the left so I get to watch many of the people coming and going while I’m writing this. Speaking of shopping – I couldn’t resist an Irish grandfather’s shirt (on sale of course) striped flannel with stand-up collar and long sleeves, size Large. I answered the doorbell this morning with only pj’s on – didn’t pack a robe – so now I’ve got a wonderful coverup! It’s easy to get in the habit of thinking dollars instead of euros when you’re looking at prices – makes everything seem cheaper! Saw a great pair of high-top tennis shoes – black with some crazy writing all over them – I may have to go back for those.
As you can see, I’m really laid back – no worries – no difficulties – just pure FUN! Oh, I still haven’t figured out how to use this stupid mobile phone but am getting along just fine without it and I noticed a pay phone just across the street! Of course, Alana and Margie probably wonder why I’m being so standoffish!
I just walked across the street to visit the church and to my complete surprise when I looked at the Visitor’s Book – the last people to sign it – just yesterday – were the Robinettes from Clemson!!!

First Day in Kinsdale and Second one, too!

Ireland Post No. 1 – First Day in Kinsdale
8/3/09 5:45 pm. After Luke dropped me off at the airport, an 8-hour overnight flight from Atlanta to Dublin leaving Sunday at 8:55 pm EST and arriving 10:15 am the next day (Monday) in Dublin, another 30-minute Ryanair flight to Kinsale, a 40 € (about $1.42/€) taxi wild ride from the airport to the apartment, I AM HERE IN http://www.kinsaleapartment.com/. I am sitting at the counter looking out the window at the beautiful very old St. Multose stone church (original church built on this site in the 6th century, present one in 1195) directly across the narrow street, (all streets are very narrow in this village). “The statue of the saint carrying a block, over the west door, reminds one of the legend which says that only strangers will prosper in Kinsale.” Wow – that sounds like good news for me! The church has been in continuous use as a place of worship for 1000 years. (Two other churches in Ireland can claim that also.)
It is raining. (I expect that sentence to appear in most of my posts.) It is cool – sweater and raincoat weather.
My apartment is directly above the Fishy Fish shop (original Fishy Fish restaurant now moved to new location near the pier). Margie (an owner of my apartment) met me here and explained all the appliances, etc. And, supplied me with a mobile phone.. AND, with home-made black currant jam, bread, eggs, butter, milk, fruit, and a couple of bakery goodies for a start on food supply!
If you are reading this, I learned how to use the internet café less than 50 yards down the street – probably tomorrow morning. I did a bit of exploring this afternoon to find a local hair salon, a tiny grocery store (closed today????), and a “beer and spirits” store for a bottle of nice Italian Pino Grigio.
The bells are ringing at St. Multose! It’s six o’clock.

Ireland Post 2. Tuesday, 4Aug9, 12:05
Tuesday crafts fair and food market this morning. Bought some kind of bread (starts with a C I think) that has no yeast, raised naturally, soft both inside and out – this has chopped black olives in it. I almost asked the vendor to spell it – yes I had in my hearing aids – but since so often vendors can’t spell, I didn’t. Anyhow, bread, Irish brie, bean and peppers salad, basmati rice, etc – and of course, there’s all kinds of other stuff for sale – from nuts to soup – literally – most of which I can’t name. (I know it’s usually “soup to nuts” but I’m still not quite oriented here.
Found the web café so will go back there and send after I finish this.
Alana, the other apartment owner, showed up this morning about 9:00 to tell me about the Tuesday open market and invite me to Wednesday evening Rotary tomorrow night. She had texted me, but I don’t yet know how to answer the phone – do know how to send calls to her, but haven’t yet figured out how to answer the phone they gave me.
The sun is shining this morning! Oh, a true delight is that both upstairs bedrooms have skylights! And, mine looks directly at St. Multose’s steeple cross! What a lovely way to awaken.
Discovered why no freezer compartment in my fridge – no frozen food sections in the grocery stores! And, of course, they don’t put ice in their whiskey!
All kinds of new discoveries occurring – that’s why I need a couple of months to figure all this stuff out! Like just because my computer is plugged into the wall doesn’t mean it is getting juice – which is why it was operating on battery which ended up “critcally low”– there’s also a switch you have to flip for every outlet! And, the one for the shower is not in the bathroom but on the bedroom wall – hence nothing but cold water till you find the switch.
Enough – time to find out if I can actually post this stuff.